Congratulations on your new cannabis clones from Hemp Dynamics Africa! You've chosen a superior starting point for your cultivation journey. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step of clone care, from immediate post-arrival handling to preparing for a bountiful harvest. With the right care, your clones will thrive in the unique climate of KwaZulu-Natal, delivering consistent results you can be proud of.

A. Post-Purchase Care (First 24-48 Hours)

Unpacking & Initial Inspection

Upon arrival, carefully unpack your clones. Handle them by the rooting medium or stem, avoiding direct contact with leaves. Inspect each clone for any signs of stress, damage, or pests. While we ensure vigorous health upon dispatch, travel can sometimes be taxing.

• What to Look For: Healthy, vibrant green leaves; moist rooting medium; visible white roots emerging from the bottom of the rooting cube (if applicable).

Acclimation (Hardening Off)

Your clones have been nurtured in a highly controlled, humid environment. Sudden exposure to drier air or intense light can shock them.

• Humidity Dome: Immediately place your clones into a clean humidity dome or a makeshift equivalent (e.g., clear plastic bag supported by stakes) to maintain high humidity (70-90%). Mist the inside of the dome and clone leaves with pH-balanced water (around 6.0-6.5) a few times a day for the first 2-3 days.
• Light: Provide low-intensity light initially. A few feet under a T5 fluorescent or a low-wattage LED (around 50-100 PPFD) on an 18/6 light cycle (18 hours on, 6 hours off) is ideal. Avoid direct, intense sunlight for the first week.
• Temperature: Maintain a stable temperature between 22-26°C (72-79°F). Use a heat mat if temperatures drop below 20°C, ensuring the rooting medium doesn't get too hot (aim for 24-26°C at the medium level).

First Watering/Feeding

Your clones typically won't need immediate feeding. The rooting medium should have enough residual nutrients. If you're transplanting into new soil, ensure the soil is lightly pre-moistened. Only water if the rooting medium feels noticeably light or dry. Use plain, pH-balanced water only for the first few days post-transplant.

B. Vegetative Stage Care (From Rooting to Flowering Initiation)

Introduction to Veg

Once your clones have visibly rooted and show new growth, they've officially entered the vegetative stage – a period of rapid foliage and structural development.

Transplanting (If Not Already Done)

• When to Transplant: When roots are clearly visible and growing out of the starter cube/plug, typically after 7-14 days. This signals the clone is ready for a larger home.
• Pot Size: Start with a 1-gallon (approx. 4-liter) pot for the first few weeks, then consider upsizing to 5-10 gallon pots (20-40 liters) for mature plants, depending on your desired final plant size and space. Good drainage is essential.
• Growing Medium: We recommend a high-quality, well-aerated potting mix. A good blend for South African conditions often includes:
  • 50% Organic Compost (for nutrients and microbial life)
  • 25% Perlite (for drainage and aeration)
  • 25% Coco Coir (for moisture retention)
  • Optional Amendments: Worm castings, dolomite lime (for pH buffering), and mycorrhizal fungi (to enhance nutrient uptake).
• Transplanting Steps: Gently remove the clone from its starter medium, disturbing the roots as little as possible. Dig a hole in your new pot large enough for the root ball. Place the clone, cover with soil, and gently firm around the base. Water immediately with pH-balanced water.

Lighting

• Light Cycle: Maintain an 18/6 light cycle (18 hours of light, 6 hours of uninterrupted darkness) to keep plants in vegetative growth. You can also use 20/4 or 24/0, but 18/6 is energy-efficient and allows for plant rest.
• Intensity: Gradually increase light intensity as your plants grow. Aim for 500-700 PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) for vigorous vegetative growth. If using high-intensity LEDs or HID lights, follow manufacturer guidelines for hanging height to prevent light burn.

Nutrients

• Veg-Specific Formulas: During vegetative growth, cannabis plants require higher levels of Nitrogen (N) for strong leafy development, along with balanced Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K). Look for 'Grow' or 'Veg' specific nutrient formulas.
• Feeding Schedule: After the first week of plain water post-transplant, begin with a ¼ strength nutrient solution. Gradually increase to ½ strength, then ¾, and eventually full strength as your plants mature and their nutrient demands increase. Always follow the manufacturer's recommended feeding schedule but observe your plants for signs of nutrient burn (e.g., burnt leaf tips) and adjust accordingly.
• pH: Maintain nutrient solution pH between 6.0-7.0 for soil grows and 5.5-6.5 for hydroponic systems to ensure optimal nutrient uptake.

Watering

• Frequency: Water thoroughly when the top 2-3 cm of soil feels dry to the touch. The goal is to water just enough so that a small amount of runoff occurs from the bottom of the pot. Avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot and deprive roots of oxygen.
• Technique: Water slowly and evenly around the base of the plant. Allow excess water to drain away completely before returning the pot to its tray.

Temperature and Humidity

• Temperature: Maintain daytime temperatures between 20-28°C (68-82°F) and nighttime temperatures around 18-24°C (64-75°F).
• Humidity: Aim for 50-70% relative humidity during the vegetative stage. As plants get larger, slightly lower humidity can help prevent mold.

Airflow

Good air circulation is vital. Use oscillating fans to gently move air around and through the plant canopy. This strengthens stems, prevents stagnant air pockets, and helps deter pests and mold, especially in Richards Bay's often humid climate. Ensure fresh air intake and exhaust if growing indoors.

C. Flowering Stage Overview (Transitioning and Care)

Introduction to Flower

Once your plants have reached your desired size and maturity, you'll initiate the flowering stage where they dedicate energy to producing buds. This section provides a brief overview as the focus of clones is on their initial health.

Light Cycle Change

For photoperiod strains, the primary trigger for flowering is a change to a 12/12 light cycle (12 hours of uninterrupted light, 12 hours of complete darkness). Consistency in darkness is crucial; even small light leaks can stress plants and cause issues.

Nutrient Adjustments

Switch to a 'Bloom' or 'Flower' specific nutrient formula, which typically has lower Nitrogen and higher Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) to support bud development. Gradually transition over a week or two.

Environmental Adjustments

• Humidity: Lower relative humidity to 40-55% during flowering to reduce the risk of mold and rot, especially on dense buds.
• Temperature: Maintain temperatures similar to veg, but slightly cooler nights (around 18-22°C or 64-72°F) can enhance terpene production and bud density.

D. Pest and Disease Prevention

Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

Proactive prevention is always better than reactive treatment. Regularly inspect your plants, especially the undersides of leaves, for any signs of pests or diseases.

Common Pests in KZN

Be vigilant for spider mites, aphids, thrips, and fungus gnats, which can thrive in humid conditions.

Organic Solutions

• Neem Oil: A powerful organic preventative and treatment for many pests. Apply as a foliar spray during the vegetative stage (avoid during flowering). Mix 1-2 teaspoons per liter of water.
• Insecticidal Soaps: Effective against soft-bodied pests like aphids and spider mites. Mix as directed and spray thoroughly.
• Beneficial Insects: Consider releasing predatory mites (e.g., Phytoseiulus persimilis for spider mites) or ladybugs as a natural biological control.
• Yellow Sticky Traps: Excellent for monitoring and catching flying pests like fungus gnats and thrips.

Disease Prevention

• Powdery Mildew: Ensure good air circulation, maintain proper humidity, and avoid drastic temperature swings. If detected, a milk spray (1 part milk to 9 parts water) or baking soda solution can be effective as an organic remedy.
• Root Rot: Primarily caused by overwatering. Ensure excellent drainage and allow the topsoil to dry between waterings.
• Hygiene: Always use sterile tools. Clean your grow space regularly to remove any plant debris or potential pest hiding spots.

E. Training Techniques (Optional - for Maximizing Yields)

Introduction to Training

Training techniques help manipulate the plant's structure to optimize light exposure, improve airflow, and increase bud sites, leading to greater yields. These are best implemented during the vegetative stage.

Low-Stress Training (LST)

Gentle bending and tying down of branches to create a wider, more even canopy. This encourages lower branches to grow upwards and receive more light, leading to more top colas.

• How-to: Use soft plant ties or garden wire (avoiding cutting into stems) to gently pull down taller branches. Aim for an even horizontal plane of growth.

Topping

A high-stress technique where you remove the very top growth tip of the main stem. This forces the plant to send energy to the two nodes below, creating two new main colas instead of one dominant one. This results in a bushier plant.

• How-to: Using sterile scissors or a razor, cleanly cut off the top 1-2 cm of the main stem just above a node. Allow the plant a week or two to recover before repeating or implementing other techniques.

Fimming (FIM)

Similar to topping but involves removing about 75% of the new growth tip, rather than 100%. This can result in 3-4 new main colas. Often considered a 'happy accident' that works well.

Lollipopping

The strategic removal of lower branches and growth that receive minimal light. This directs the plant's energy to the top, well-lit bud sites, resulting in larger, denser flowers at the canopy and eliminating 'popcorn' buds below.

• How-to: During late vegetative or early flowering, prune away branches and leaves on the lower third of the plant that are not receiving adequate light.

Screen of Green (ScrOG)

Utilizing a horizontal screen or net above your plants. As plants grow, you weave and tuck branches through the screen, creating an even, flat canopy. This ensures all bud sites receive optimal light and allows for excellent airflow.

• How-to: Set up a screen (mesh size 5-10 cm squares) above your plants. As branches grow through, gently tuck them back under the screen to spread out the canopy. Continue until flowering stretches fill the screen.
• Timing is Key: Most training techniques are best applied during the vegetative stage to allow the plant time to recover and adapt before flowering begins. Avoid high-stress training (like topping or supercropping) once flowering has started (typically 3 weeks into the 12/12 light cycle).